Fall is the season for the year’s most anticipated cookbooks and this year one of them is Season: Big Flavors, Beautiful Food by my good friend Nik Sharma, the blogger behind A Brown Table and columnist of A Brown Kitchen at the San Francisco Chronicle. Nik came to food after several years as a scientist and views his kitchen just like a lab. The results are a wonderful alchemy of flavors and textures. When he talks about food, he discusses the chemistry of ingredients and the reactions that happen when the right ones come together – it’s fascinating. Nik is also a gifted photographer with a distinct style that is difficult not to be drawn in by. I think he was the first photographer to make brown hands visible in food photography, which may seem like an inconsequential detail but it was a giant leap in a world that is often dominated by white chefs, food photographers, bloggers and writers.
The recipes in the book weave Nik’s culinary influences from growing up in Bombay, living in the Midwest and in DC, visiting his in-laws in the South and eventually settling in the Bay Area. It’s not only the places he has been, but also his identity as a gay Indian immigrant that have shaped his style of cooking. Although Nik and I are close, in reading his book, I started to understand why leaving home was imperative for him to live the life he was meant to lead and become who he is today. In light of Section 377 being overturned just this September in India, which put an end to more than 150 years of anti-LGBT legislation, his account could not be more poignant. I believe Season will be remembered for years to come for his story and the uniquely beautiful food he creates.
In flipping through the book, it was difficult to decide what to make first. I finally chose his Bombay frittata because it’s a recipe inspired by one his mother would make for him growing up. It combines the flavors of ghee, garam masala, crème fraîche, scallions, cilantro and paneer – can’t go wrong there. The aroma when this frittata is baking in the oven is heavenly; it was truly delicious. We had leftovers and they were just as good the next day. I omitted the chilis so I could feed Alok some and then spiced it up with a little bit of my Curry Ketchup on the side.
Nik’s Bombay Frittata from Season (Chronicle Books, 2018)
Serves 6
Ingredients
12 large eggs
½ cup crème fraîche
½ cup finely chopped red onion
2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¼ cup tightly packed fresh cilantro leaves
½ teaspoon garam masala
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes
2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
¼ cup crumbled paneer or feta
Method
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat the oven to 350 degrees.
In a large bowl, combine the eggs, crème fraîche, onion, scallions, garlic, cilantro, garam masala, salt, pepper, turmeric and red-pepper flakes and beat with a whisk or fork until just combined.
Heat the ghee or oil in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet, such as cast iron, over medium-high heat, tilting the skillet to coat it evenly.
When the ghee bubbles, pour the eggs into the center of the skillet, shaking to distribute evenly. Cook, undisturbed, until the frittata starts to firm up on the bottom and along the sides but is still slightly jiggly on top, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the paneer and transfer the skillet to the oven.
Cook until frittata is golden brown and has reached desired doneness, 15 to 25 minutes. Serve warm.
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